Fiordland enticed me with her iconic granite peaks towering above draped in vegetation. Mitre Peak was surely next. Disheartened to hear water taxis were no longer, I drove into Homer Hut anyway, after an evening dash up to Conical Hill on the Routeburn. To my good fortune, a friend at Homer Hut lent me his white water kayak for the trip across the sounds. The Mitre Peak dream was alive again.